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Home Nepal Everest Region Mt. Everest Expedition ( South East ridge)
# Mt. Everest Expedition ( South East ridge) - (65 Days)
Mt. Everest Expedition ( South East ridge)

Mount Everest, rising 8,848m (29,028ft) above sea level reigns as the highest mountain on Earth. For decades summiting Everest has been considered one of the greatest mountaineering achievements. In the spring of each year, we embrace this intense challenge by taking a group of qualified climbers to Nepal to climb Mt. Everest via the South Col route. The South Col was the first successfully climbed route on Mt. Everest as Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay accomplished this feat in 1953. Since then, the South Col has seen over 400 ascents. It is by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.

ATE (Arun Treks & Expedition) has been running successful expeditions since 1990 with more than 25 successful expeditions to the world highest peak. Our profile includes full expedition support to some of the world famous climbers. ATE, is also one of the pioneer company to undertake commercial Everest expedition in Nepal & Tibet. Our Sherpas are highly qualified and experienced. All our Sherpas have had high reputation with excellent success rates with safety of client as number one priority.

We are committed to provide you with the best quality of service and experience to help you reach your goal. However, all climbing members will have had considerable climbing experience at higher altitudes, preferably in Himalaya. Each climber will be aware of the inherent risks - bad weather, injury and death ? associated with climbing Everest and understand that the possibility of actually summit is very slim. There will be a manager at base camp to assist the team and act as a liaison between climbers and the Sherpas. All members will be assisted by our high quality Sherpa at the ratio of 1:1, most of whom have summit Everest numerous times
 
Proper acclimatization is of the utmost importance, as well as the following the advice of the climbing Sherpa and the teams Sirdar. Oxygen (05 bottles with mask and regulator) is included in the cost. Food will be both local and imported; high altitude food will be a variety of the standard precooked, imported, boil-n-bags. Members are responsible for their own private snacks, sports drinks and personal preferences.   Each member is responsible for his/her own first aid supplies.

EVEREST FACTS
Claimed as highest peak:  1808 (Survey of India and British Surveyor\'s)
Named:  1865 by Andrew Waugh for Sir George Everest
First detailed map: 1921
First summit: 1953 Hillary & Norgay
First woman climber: 1975, Junko Tabei (Japanese)
First climb w/o supplemental Oxygen: 1978 Reinhold Messner

On Arrival in KTM & Necessary Preparation
On your arrival in KTM, Tribhuban International Air port, our air port representative will be ready just front of arrival gate showing the board of “ ARUN TREKS & EXPEDITION? please try to catch the board man. We will take you to Hotel, short briefing for the next days plan. If this is your first time in Nepal, will organize a city tour next day morning takes 3-4 hours. In the late afternoon we go through your personal climbing equipments in order to make sure that you have every item in order & good condition. The evening will be the time for Dinner, Introduction with your Sherpa staff. 3rd day is for final preparation and pack up.

If you want more days in KTM for preparation then we would like to request you to arrange your arrival in KTM accordingly.

Trekking Approch to Base Camp
Our approach to base camp trekking begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (gate way of Everest region). Once we reach there, it takes us couple of hours to manage the porters and start walking alone with the Milk River (Dudh Kaoshi) for 2-3 hours from here we begin our trek to Everest base camp and reach to a small village call Phaking (2625m) where you are going to spend your first night in Everest area. Next day trek to Namche (9,000ft), which lies at the base of the Khumbu Himal.. The trek will take approximately 10 days and travels from the Dudh Kosi valley up through the Imja Drangka and finally onto the Khumbu glacier. Along the way we will visit the cities of Namche, Tengpoche, Pheriche and Lobuche, all of which are fascinating and richly cultured villages, which provide spectacular views of the Himalayas. For acclimatization purposes, this trek is longer than usual. This also gives us the chance to explore the many different areas and take the time to visit local monasteries and visit with Nepali Sherpa friends. Click here for a brief overview of Sherpa life.

Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. This is also where support staff often remains to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit).
From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.
The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

In & Around Everest Base Camp
Having years of experience helped us to establish the finest Base Camp in the mountain. With the highest quality tent structures and imported foods, we strive to insure the time at Base Camp is restful and revitalizing. By providing these accommodations, we make every effort to keep climbers healthy and rested.

Climbing Routes & High Camps
By the time we reach at base camp, our climbing leaders and Sherpa will be well on the way to having the lower part of the mountain (the Khumbu Ice Fall) already fixed with ropes and ladders. We will establish four camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the ice fall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until Camp II (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft. Camp II will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping.  Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 26,300ft respectively). Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face will consist of three and four man tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp which climbers will use to reach Camp IV (high camp) on the South Col. Most of our Sherpa are able to carry directly from Camp II to Camp IV, so large amounts of gear are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to help aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we travel along the South East Ridge to the South Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary step and then onto the main summit.

Brief Information of High Camps of the Mt Everest 

Camp I – 5,945 meters
After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II – 6,402 meters
As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.

Camp III - 23,500 feet (7,164 meters)
To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)
As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

SUMMIT ATTEMPTS
After Camps III and IV are established and all our supplies are in place, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Once we are ready, we return to Advanced Base. If good weather prevails we move the summit team to Camp III, on day 2/3. Day 3/4 will be summit day for the team. They will start very early that morning and attempt to reach the summit before mid-day. After the summit, they retreat back to the South Col and on to Camp III. Next day the team will back to camp II & base camp.

As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try as many summit attempts as safely possible as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpa will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)
Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment. 
As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

Trekking Days: -› (0)
Total Days: -› (65)
Min. Altitude: -› (0m./0ft.)
Max. Altitude: -› (8848m./29029ft.)
Walking Per Day: -› Approximately 5-7hrs
Route Nature: -› Camping [Fully Organized Trekking]
Difficulty: -› Very Hard
Season: -› March-May.
Price: -› 0
Day 01: Arrival in KTM & transfer to hotel
Day 02: Half day sightseeing and evening equipment preparation 
Day 03: Kathmandu; final preparation for trek
Day 04: Fly Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 06: Namche. Rest day/Side trip to Syangbouche/Thame
Day 07: Trek to Tengbouche
Day 08: Trek to Dingbouche
Day 09: Dingbouche. Rest day
Day 10: Trek to Lobouche
Day 11: Trek to Gorekshep
Day 12: Trek Everest Base Camp
Day 13 to 58: MT. EVEREST CLIMBING PERIOD
Day 59 Trek to Pheriche
Day 60: Trek to Tengbouche
Day 61: Trek to Monjo
Day 62: Trek to Lukla
Day 63: Fly back to Kathmandu
Day 64: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 65: Fly back to home

Services Included
• Mt Everest Climbing permit
• A full support acclimatized trip to Island Peak (6173m)
• 6 (six) nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on BB basis
• Flight to and from Lukla.
• Custom clearances as required
• Excess baggage to & from Lukla with domestic airport taxes
• Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load to & from base camp
• Liaison officer wages and allowances
• Everest Ice fall charges
• One head Expedition Climbing Sirdar
• Experienced cooks and Kitchen boys.
• Permanent camp II (Advance base camp) kitchen set up with necessary arrangements.
• Experienced & profession high altitude (1:1) personal climbing sherpa to each client
• Climbing sherpa’s wages, equipment bonus, insurance, high camps load ferry bonus etc.
• Best quality tents at Base camp with sleeping mattress
• Best quality dinning tent with heater at BC
• All necessary kitchen & camping equipments during the treks & climb
• Portable comfortable wooden toilet at base camp
• Shower facility at base camp
• Carpeting inside the dinning tent
• Imported high quality high Altitude tents for the higher camps
• All necessary climbing hardware gears except personal gears
• Highly preferable meals at Base camp & above for higher camps
• All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
• Imported quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
• Enough numbers of EPI gases with burner for high camps
• POISK Oxygen (05 Bottles per client & 03 bottles per Sherpa)
• Mask and regulator to use
• Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base station & accessories
• Satellite phone for the emergency purpose (Personal call $ 4 per minutes)
• Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for recharging & power supply
• Gamow/PAC bag at base camp for medical purpose
• 2 pieces of ARUN duffel bags to each clients
• BC & ABC purpose ARUN sleeping bag to each client
• BC & ABC purpose ARUN Down Jacket to each client
• Oxygens with mask set for medical purpose at base camp
• Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff + LO
• Insurance of local team members + LO
• All airport/hotel transport
• Celebration meal in Kathmandu
• Pre -briefing and de-briefing
• Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu


Services Excluded
• High Altitude insurance of member (Suggested to have the Helicopter evacuation as well)
• International Air ticket & air port taxes
• Personal climbing equipments
• Cost of emergency evacuation
• Personal Natures of expenses
• Tips & Summit bonus to the sherpa staffs


Additional Services if you Required:
• Base camp support trekkers : US $ 3500/- per person
• Extra Climbing Sherpa : US $ 4500/-
• POISK 4 liter branded Oxygen : US $ 430/- per bottle/tube
• POISK 4 liter Re fill Oxygen : US $ 290/- per bottle/tube

Due to circumstances such as increase in prices by airlines, hotels, resorts, we may have to enforce changes in our tour prices and we shall not be held liable for these circumstances. We shall of course, try our utmost not to increase prices!
 
The following provisions have been made for reservations:
01: We require
         A. 20% -non refundable deposit for booking trips 
         B. Final payment to be paid before departure from Kathmandu or HHTcounter nearest to your travel destination
 
02: Cancellations must be made at least 15 days prior to the start date of trip.
 
03: No refund will be made of the 20% deposit in case of cancellation for whatsoever reason.
 
04: Payment excepted by credit card (4% extra will be levied to you as credit card processing fee), cash, bank draft, or bank account wire.
 
05: Bank service charge should be paid by the clients themselves at the time of deposit.
 
06: Risk and Liabilities: We are committed to providing the best services which will give you a once in a life time journey In this connection, we perform our duties honestly and seriously to make your journey very smooth & pleasant. However, all programs are conducted strictly under the rules and regulation of the country's own policies. Therefore High-Himalaya Treks and its related organization shall not be responsible for any changes in the itinerary due to unavoidable circumstance such as govt. restriction, land slide, road blockage, flood, snow, political unrest, cancellation of flight, delay, sickness or accident. Any extra cost incurring there of shall be borne by the clients on the spot.
 
07: Insurance: Travel insurance is compulsory for all clients undertaking any tour. It should provide adequate protection for the full duration of the tour to cover personal injury, medical expenses, repatriation expenses, helicopter evacuation, loss of luggage etc.
 
Personal travel insurance is not included in the holiday prices quoted. While every effort is made to ensure the safety of all participants, it is a condition of booking that you take out a personal travel insurance policy. To protect against unforeseen circumstances, it is advisable to take a "Trip cancellations and medical insurance policy" before your arrival into Kathmandu. Such medical policy should cover transportation costs in the event of helicopter or surface evacuation being required. This is especially mandatory for those taking treks to high altitude.
 
 08: Personal belongings: On any account, we are not answerable for any loss or damage of your luggage or property belonging to you even when shouldered by porters, ponies or vehicles. That means your personal possessions, luggage are at your risk at all times.
 
09: Responsibility: A tour / trek guide who represents High Himalaya Treks deserves all authority during your tours. If you commit any unlawful act, you are compelled to leave the tour. No refund will be made in such cases. 
 
10: Flight delay/cancellations: There is the possibility of flight delay or postponement of flight as the weather in Himalayan regions can be unpredictable. In particular flights to the Everest region (Lukla), Jomsom, Dolpa, Simikot Jumla and Taplejung region etc. may be influenced.
 
11: When trekking in the remote areas or in the areas as described above, especially off season, you are highly advised to reserve extra days to be prepared in case of delays, to avoid frustrating consequences. In case of flight cancellation pre-tour/post-tour, you are required to meet your accommodation and food costs yourself.
Map of Mt. Everest Expedition ( South East ridge)

Photos from Mt. Everest Expedition ( South East ridge)

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